Looking back on annual visits to Buenos Aires since 1999, it's clear that the city and tango have changed a lot - some things for the better, others not so.
I remember when ...
... milongas were held in the iconic Maipu 444, the magnificent Club Espanol and the gorgeous Confiteria Ideal (pictured)
... garbage littered the footpath each night, pedestrians constantly had to dodge dog droppings, and Avenida 9 de Julio median strip was a no-go zone resembling a rubbish tip
... AU$1 would only buy 50 centavos, and it cost 5 pesos to enter a milonga
... La Viruta milonga (then known as La Estrella) attracted hot-shot milongueros. Men wore jackets and ties to milongas, the standard of dance was high, and the milonga codes were strictly adhered to
... the only coffee available, including in the grand old confiterias, was not good at all
... Flabella was the go-to place for tango shoes
Now ...
... a number of the dance venues have closed - some converted into office space or gyms - but at least efforts are being made to renovate Confiteria Ideal
... the City of Buenos Aires has made a big effort to clean up and beautify the streets, including a campaign to educate dog-owners. 9 de Julio is now more functional for traffic and pedestrians, and has been landscaped beautifully
... May 2019, AU$1 buys around 30 pesos and going up! Entry to Lujos milonga is 200 pesos, and other milongas 140 - 180 pesos
... La Viruta/Estrella changed its persona some years ago and now appeals to dancers interested in dancing non-traditional tango. The standard of dancing and respect for the codigos has declined. Many of the old milongueros have passed away, taking their example and authority with them. Many dancers now find they can afford to attend only one milonga each week, while others have stopped attending completely
... there are many small, specialty coffee shops in the city & suburbs serving coffee to satisfy even the most demanding coffee-snob
... tango shoes are everywhere, but it's hard to beat Katrinski cushioned, hand-made to order shoes that cost around AU$150
Bob
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks for your comment. All comments are subject to moderation. Don't worry - it won't take long.